Surf’s Up: Sheboygan, WI

Ahh yes, it’s autumn in Wisconsin and everybody’s taking in the fall colors on hayrides, hikes, and Sunday drives. But fall is prime time for more than just tree-gazing. The months between September and December also deliver the biggest and most consistent surf along Wisconsin’s 950 miles of coastline. Yes, that’s right – surf, and Wisconsin not only has waves, it has a community of surfers dedicated to chasing them.

The best place within striking distance of Madison to see or even paddle out with freshwater surfers is Sheboygan, WI, a two-hour drive to the northeast. Sheboygan, a pleasant lakeside town of 50,000 and home to the Dairyland Surf Classic, has several good surf breaks around town, a long history of super-friendly local surfers, and some good hangouts in case the swell isn’t hitting.

The most important aspect of finding surf – or surfers for that matter – in Sheboygan is being able to read the weather and predict when “swells” in the lake will be created by winds and changes in air pressure. You can’t surf everyday in Sheboygan, only when there is a swell that generates larger than average waves which break at specific spots depending on the swell’s direction. Predicting surf is an intense science, but the big indicators for a good swell are plunging air pressure and sustained high winds coming from the north to north east or the south to southeast. Lake forecasts that call for average waves 4 ft. or higher are also a good bet. The Lakesurf website (www.lakesurf.com) has a slew of links and information on when and where to surf around the Great Lakes as well as heavily-used message boards good for picking up info on where the surf is up, finding used equipment, and asking questions.

Unlike locals at most surf spots around the world, which discourage outsiders from surfing “their” waves, Sheboygan surfers “are a friendly, laid-back bunch that just want to see people catch waves,” says Grant Davey, an Australian surfer who moved to Sheboygan ten years ago for a job. You’ll also need a warm wetsuit (4-6 mm) with a hood and booties for the chilly fall water temperatures which range from 35-55 degrees. A higher-volume board also works well since the fresh water is less buoyant than salt water. If you’re intent on catching some freshwater waves but have no equipment, don’t despair. It’s far from uncommon for Great Lakes surfers, especially those in Sheboygan, to lend a board and wetsuit to someone with either obvious knowledge of surfing or an undeniable desire to learn. Just show up at a break when the surf is up and do your best to strike up conversation.

The surf in Sheboygan isn’t a novelty. With a strong south or southeast swell and the right wind, the barreling waves at North Point (on N. Point Rd.), are occasionally dilated enough for Davey to stand up tall when he pulls inside of them. Here swells come in from very deep water and break in powerful, hollow waves over a shallow reef-like bed of limestone – perfect for rides for shortboarding. The surf is slightly cleaner and smaller near the jetties further to the north.

“The Elbow” is Sheboygan’s most notorious surf spot, named for the bend in the rock pier that the waves break near. Rather than paddle out two hundred yards through tumultuous surf from the large city beach adjacent to the Harbor Center Marina, surfers walk out on the large rock pier about half of the way to the big lighthouse and then jump off the rocks with their boards to get to the line-up. Waves at the Elbow, best for longboarders, are often head-high with a strong south swell and give long rides all the way to the beach. The large rock pier with cement sidewalk is an excellent place to watch surfers cruise by on waves, sometimes only 15 yards away from the pier.

“Black River,” just south of town off Lakeshore Dr. on N. Evergreen Rd., is a mellow beach break that is less intimidating for beginners. The sandbars here make for fun waves on north or south swells.

Two of Sheboygan’s most well-known surfers own places to hangout and eat. The Weather Center Café, located right on the water at the south end of the city’s marina, is a cozy place to get coffee, delectable baked goods, and great sandwiches and soups. Check the bulletin board for both the latest pictures of Sheboygan’s surfers and bits of Sheboygan’s surfing history. If the place isn’t too busy, which is rare, ask Teek, the café owner/freshwater surfing hardcore/proud member of Team Blatz, how the surf has been. The surf might not be much compared to other ocean locales, but the positive vibe of surfers in Sheboygan is unbeatable.